all the smart ones who stayed in the rocky section , breezed right in . me on the other hand ,did not want to put the first scratches on the new hobie and,decided to paddle in just south of rocks . i was doing good , timing the surf , and for once taking a minute to figure it out . when i had a game plan , big Sammy started to rush me in .
. i got caught in no mans land with 3 ft wave crashing on my back . i leaned back hard , and was riding white water for about 1.5 secs. i think my mistake was , having rudder up , digging in blade to brace , or back peddling in hope of riding crest of the wave ? that actually put my right in the middle of the danger zone . thanks for hearing me out . anyway i am leaning toward a thread jack . forgive me .
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