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Old 05-19-2015, 12:53 PM   #1
Montesdad
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So, now we shorten the post so it sits lower to the water and is out of the way for fishing - after eyeballing and doing this cutting, I would have left the post about two inches longer but, it still comes and goes easily.



I inserted a cut down paint stir stick to make sure I didn't cut any of the wires with the hacksaw -

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:58 PM   #2
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Now for the electronics - I cut the wires down the same amount of the post removal, put fresh connections on them and rewired so there wouldn't be so much left over. Drilled a fresh hole for the top mount and put it all back together.






Decided to trim the propeller guard off to help with facilitating removal and insertion into the plug hole. In retrospect, I could have left it on - just seems a bit easier for removal.
I figure I'm not going to be running over any objects and I always have me pedals stowed as a backup.

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Last edited by Montesdad; 05-19-2015 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:03 PM   #3
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Dont forget to register your PA now that your a motorized vessel.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:08 PM   #4
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I didn't want to run the power cables directly thru to the battery - so I picked up a black cutting board at Bed Bath and Beyond which had a very convenient hole in just the right place. Cut a piece off to the same dimensions as the Hobie pole holder unit where it'll go.
If fit perfectly with a West Marine plug that I picked up for $20.



I installed a recommended 50 amp manual reset circuit breaker to the back side of the plate and installed it on the right side of the yak in place of the pole holders.

Made a little mounting plate and epoxied the unit to the back of the plug place internally



Some basic wiring started





A Sealed, Lead Acid, GEL type, 55 AMP NF-22 battery fits perfectly between the scupper tubes internally directly under the center of mass/seat.

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Old 05-19-2015, 01:12 PM   #5
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A little something I added to keep the prop in line with the bottom of the hull as it angles back slightly when under load -





Just checking things out and almost done -


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Old 05-19-2015, 01:21 PM   #6
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I went over to an auto parts store and picked up a cheapie set of jumper cables with size 8 wiring for my internal wires from the circuit breaker to the battery.
Replaced the big clamps with some smaller ones for the battery attachment.
Also, one can attach their fish finder wires the battery if so desired.

Anyway, the finished product.




Notice the clamp I added on the post above the motor - this keeps one from pulling the motor up past a point that the prop will hit the bottom of the hull.

Minn Kota states that with this motor which has 5 forward and 3 reverse speeds, one uses about 8 amps at setting 1, 16 amps at 2, 24 at 3, 32 at 4 and all 40 at 5 or full speed. A 55 amp hour battery should last accordingly - I don't know as I've not worn down the battery enough to have the unit shut down on me. The top of this motor has a battery meter that checks battery strength at 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% as long as the motor is not turned on.

Anyway - works great, just wanted to share as it was a fun little project. Not making any statements on CF numbers - you should checkout the regs for your personal usage. I drop it in when I get outside, peddle around in the harbor and at fishing spots. Be sure to secure it with some parachute cord and a clamp of some sort to the yak.
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Last edited by Montesdad; 05-26-2015 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:02 PM   #7
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That's a sweet setup man! Very clean!!
If that's the Marineco trolling motor plug, be extra certain the screw in terminals for the wires are good and solid. Yank on them before each use. Mine would loosen and fall out eventually. I opted to solder the wires to the plugs. No easy task. And the nubs on the casette are going to eventually break. When it does replace it with an old shaft from your mirage drive.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igotpron View Post
And the nubs on the casette are going to eventually break. When it does replace it with an old shaft from your mirage drive.
Not certain that will happen as I also put a screw and nylon washer on the forward part of the cassette right at the hull line and it's a snug fit - when the motor is pushing forward, the stainless screw is pressing against the hull in a very thick spot. You can see it in the very last picture on the forward part of the cassette.
I wanted a fairly snug fit with a little wiggle room

In addition, I went up to a metal supply shop in Irvine and picked up several 1/2" rods, some stainless tubing and a couple other aluminum. I've seen a couple other setups with one of each.

Appreciate the feedback -


Quote:
Originally Posted by driftwood View Post
Nice Job! however, I prefer a motor that doesn't take up/eliminate your Mirage drive pedals. I like the idea of using both the pedal and motor at the same time.
By using both the mirage drive pedal power and electric motor simultaneously your battery will last a lot longer and you'll go faster and longer with less strain on your legs.
your project looks good though, let us know how you like it.
Yeah, me too - I guess I could make a mount to use it on the bow, or off the stern - seen some youtube videos of those.
Like I said, was just having some fun - great little project.
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Last edited by Montesdad; 05-19-2015 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:18 AM   #9
Montesdad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igotpron View Post
That's a sweet setup man! Very clean!!
If that's the Marineco trolling motor plug, be extra certain the screw in terminals for the wires are good and solid. Yank on them before each use. Mine would loosen and fall out eventually. I opted to solder the wires to the plugs. No easy task.
I had one of those little screws break off when it seized up on me - I had to move one of the small stainless units to that spot where my two wires are attached and trashed the other as I couldn't get the screw out. Went down to the hardware store and replaced the remaining screws with stainless and they work well - no issues to this point as I just grab the plug and have been not pulling at all on the wires.

Thanks for the comments and if someone uses these plugs - first thing you should do is replace those little internal screws which are coated brass with stainless steel. Got mine at DeNaults True Value.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:14 PM   #10
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Nice Job! however, I prefer a motor that doesn't take up/eliminate your Mirage drive pedals. I like the idea of using both the pedal and motor at the same time.

By using both the mirage drive pedal power and electric motor simultaneously your battery will last a lot longer and you'll go faster and longer with less strain on your legs.

your project looks good though, let us know how you like it.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:33 PM   #11
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Great post and pics. Very informative as well.
I'll be thinking of you when you see that big boil way off in the distance and your legs and arms are already beat. Just click on the switch and away you go.
Gotta be nice as well at the end of the day when an offshore wind kicks in and you've got that added power coming in.
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