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Old 07-26-2013, 05:01 PM   #1
alanw
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Don't take this wrong because I think that's a good idea, but from the pictures it looks like a weak design with those hinges. Plus is that short of an extension even worth it? I think maybe a bigger tube on the tailgate with an extension tube that slips inside the bigger one would be clean and strong.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:08 PM   #2
FishNinjaY
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I think it's probably good. I agree, that a tube sliding within a larger tube would be much stronger and eliminate the hinge. But, I think the way it is the kayak center-of-gravity (COG) is well in front of that hinge. I think this rear extender is not supporting much weight, and just mainly for balance and some more spreading or distribution of the weight. I like that it folds out of the way. Also, I could see it possible to add a short bar on each arm to span across the hinge to lock it in and further reinforce this weak point.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:09 AM   #3
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I popped the original pin out of the hinges and replaced them with high grade stainless steel bolts. The hinge holds my weight at 220lb. Also, that little bit of an extension really was all I needed. It also gave me an additional place to strap the kayak down. I strap it like I would to any other roof rack. I'm an engineer. I though of everthing


The sliding tube was my first thought, but coating it to prevent rust was an issue, since the paint of the smaller tube would continue to scrape off
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:21 AM   #4
bus kid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
my weight at 220lb.
You on a diet?
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:19 PM   #5
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Another DIY Kayak Cart?

Yep, I built another Kayak Cart.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qG2oGTiHLB8
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:21 PM   #6
Rambo
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Adjustable DIY heavy duty cart Hobie revise

Here's a DIY for anyone that wants scupper adjustable plug in cart with the ability to exchange any wheels to haul their kayak on the beach or terrains.

Equipment needed (home depot)
QTY: Material Price
1 3/4 in. x 10 ft. Electric Metallic Tube Conduit 3.64
1 5/8x11 by 24 inch length threaded rod stainless steel 4.54
1 5/8x11 by 36 inch lenght threaded rod stainless steel 6.98
8 5/8x11 nut 8 x 0.35 = 2.80
8 3/4 washer 8 x 0.40 = 3.20
2 10-1/2 in. x 3-1/3 in. Flat-Free Tire for Hand Trucks (300lbs payload per wheel) 2 x 24.99

Total Price = 71.16 before tax

Finish product


Cut the pipes into 36"
Then use pipe bender to bend to 45 degrees, I mark about 8.25inch from the bottom of my 36" pipe to start my first bend. then 16.30" for the 2nd bend. This allows for my 11 1/2" gap for the scupper plug with my 36" 5/8" threaded rod.



Use a center punch to start my drill place, and after that, start with my small drill bit and step step to drill my to my 5/8 hole diameter.






Then I test the assembly after drilling all my holes for the wheel axle and the supporting/resting bar.


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps45787f78.jpg

With the left over 40" pipe I trim it down t 24" and added it as a sleeve to help distribute the load over the axle in case it bows.



Also, in case I need to change out the wheels for beach wheels, its easy to just unscrew and place the beach wheels due to my long thread.



It's my 1st attempt at pipe bending. I'll be adding some PVC/pool noodle to top supporting rod to minimize any scruff mark on the kayak.

Last edited by Rambo; 07-24-2014 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:41 AM   #7
jruiz
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Just some helpful criticism. The Wheel on the left will always work loose since it's spinning ccw. The pinched bends probably reduced your weight capacity quite a bit.
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