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Old 05-19-2015, 12:45 PM   #1
Montesdad
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Checking the preliminary fit -







still checking the fit - dremeled off the excess of the stainless steel screws

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:49 PM   #2
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Ok - we have a problem here. Getting the thing in and out is going to be an issue. It won't maneuver properly with the seat in place - this is going to be a pain.



Even with the top off, it won't fit - hummmmmm!!!!



Ah - the solution, it comes and goes quite easily this way. Spin it around, drop the head into the storage hatch and it comes and goes easily -
Just need to make sure the prop is lined up when taking it out.

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:53 PM   #3
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So, now we shorten the post so it sits lower to the water and is out of the way for fishing - after eyeballing and doing this cutting, I would have left the post about two inches longer but, it still comes and goes easily.



I inserted a cut down paint stir stick to make sure I didn't cut any of the wires with the hacksaw -

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:58 PM   #4
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Now for the electronics - I cut the wires down the same amount of the post removal, put fresh connections on them and rewired so there wouldn't be so much left over. Drilled a fresh hole for the top mount and put it all back together.






Decided to trim the propeller guard off to help with facilitating removal and insertion into the plug hole. In retrospect, I could have left it on - just seems a bit easier for removal.
I figure I'm not going to be running over any objects and I always have me pedals stowed as a backup.

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Old 05-19-2015, 01:03 PM   #5
619-SWIM-DOG
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Dont forget to register your PA now that your a motorized vessel.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:08 PM   #6
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I didn't want to run the power cables directly thru to the battery - so I picked up a black cutting board at Bed Bath and Beyond which had a very convenient hole in just the right place. Cut a piece off to the same dimensions as the Hobie pole holder unit where it'll go.
If fit perfectly with a West Marine plug that I picked up for $20.



I installed a recommended 50 amp manual reset circuit breaker to the back side of the plate and installed it on the right side of the yak in place of the pole holders.

Made a little mounting plate and epoxied the unit to the back of the plug place internally



Some basic wiring started





A Sealed, Lead Acid, GEL type, 55 AMP NF-22 battery fits perfectly between the scupper tubes internally directly under the center of mass/seat.

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Old 05-19-2015, 01:12 PM   #7
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A little something I added to keep the prop in line with the bottom of the hull as it angles back slightly when under load -





Just checking things out and almost done -


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Old 05-19-2015, 01:21 PM   #8
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I went over to an auto parts store and picked up a cheapie set of jumper cables with size 8 wiring for my internal wires from the circuit breaker to the battery.
Replaced the big clamps with some smaller ones for the battery attachment.
Also, one can attach their fish finder wires the battery if so desired.

Anyway, the finished product.




Notice the clamp I added on the post above the motor - this keeps one from pulling the motor up past a point that the prop will hit the bottom of the hull.

Minn Kota states that with this motor which has 5 forward and 3 reverse speeds, one uses about 8 amps at setting 1, 16 amps at 2, 24 at 3, 32 at 4 and all 40 at 5 or full speed. A 55 amp hour battery should last accordingly - I don't know as I've not worn down the battery enough to have the unit shut down on me. The top of this motor has a battery meter that checks battery strength at 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% as long as the motor is not turned on.

Anyway - works great, just wanted to share as it was a fun little project. Not making any statements on CF numbers - you should checkout the regs for your personal usage. I drop it in when I get outside, peddle around in the harbor and at fishing spots. Be sure to secure it with some parachute cord and a clamp of some sort to the yak.
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