Overflowing kayatank

[Dan W.]

I bought an adjustable timer switch from Cabelas. Its on for 30 seconds and has an adjustable off cycle from 0-@ 5 minutes. $30.

[aguachico]

Originally Posted by Dan W.

I bought an adjustable timer switch from Cabelas. Its on for 30 seconds and has an adjustable off cycle from 0-@ 5 minutes. $30.

Dan; that timer is great. Too bad it isn't water proof. It's designed for a console of a boat, that is unless they changed the design. If it is the same one, I went thru 3 of them, the inevitable salt water intrusion has begun...

[dgax65]

Originally Posted by aguachico

Dan; that timer is great. Too bad it isn't water proof. It's designed for a console of a boat, that is unless they changed the design. If it is the same one, I went thru 3 of them, the inevitable salt water intrusion has begun...

I had one of those (made by Patriot or Minute Man?) and it started rusting after the first trip. You can waterproof those to a degree. After it is wired up, coat the entire body of the timer switch with liquid electrical tape (Starbrite). It might take a couple of coats. Let it cure for a few days until it sets hard. Then put dielectric grease on the switch shaft and the potentiometer shaft. The last step is to put a rubber boot on the switch. Note: use wire markers so you know what each lead is-the Starbrite covers up all the markings on the switch.

OR......

You can just get one of the timers from Angler's Yak Shack that suits your needs. Their timers are potted and, as far as I can tell, damn near indestructible.

[madscientist]

Originally Posted by dgax65

You can just get one of the timers from Angler's Yak Shack that suits your needs. Their timers are potted and, as far as I can tell, damn near indestructible.

Unless you hook them up with the reverse polarity.

Don't ask me how I know that.

[Siebler]

Gitrevan, Call me 858-715-4669 and well work it out.

For the others, yes our timers are 100% waterproof but like brad said, Dont hook them up backwards and always protect with a 5amp fuse.

[madscientist]

Hey CJ, what's the fuse actually for? I got sick of corroded fuses and breakers over a year ago and have been running all my stuff without them with no problems. Before I canned the whole thing, I was using 2.5amp circuit breakers instead of fuses and they worked fine until they corroded. Am I at risk of melting a hole in the yak if I get a short somewhere?

[Siebler]

As far as I know (I just sell the things ) The fuse is there just to keep the sensitive internal parts from blowing, Same deal as not hooking it up reversed polarity.

To keep the warranty on your tiemr you must use this fuse. However from personal experience I know that these timers can handle more than 5 amps for some time without blowing. I have run one of my hunting decoys on a switch with no fuse all season long. The motor on this thing is a 28lb trolling motor unit. Draws a lot more than 5 amps and It still works.

[nmbrinkman]

Originally Posted by madscientist

Hey CJ, what's the fuse actually for? I got sick of corroded fuses and breakers over a year ago and have been running all my stuff without them with no problems. Before I canned the whole thing, I was using 2.5amp circuit breakers instead of fuses and they worked fine until they corroded. Am I at risk of melting a hole in the yak if I get a short somewhere?

A while back I ruined a timer switch and Mo fixed it for me. He wired in a "prototype" that doesn't get ruined when you "reverse the polarity". Not sure if it made it past the prototype stage or what but I assume it was a good idea. Haven't tested it yet though.

I got tired as well of corrosing in the inline fuse. I went to west marine and wired in a chip style fuse holder. It seems to be a heckuva lot more waterproof than the first one. I also had issues with the cable going to the battery. That wasn't such an easy find for me. I ended up rewiring the whole system from scratch. I also noticed a lot of corrosion in the spade style connectors... even with the plastic shields around them they still corroded. I went with open ended butt connectors with the heatshrink already on it. Then I covered the whole thing in liquid electrical tape. Sure, I can't disconnect the harness to trouble shoot but now, hopefully I won't ever have to. Or I'll just buy a multimeter.

This , by the way, isn't a knock on the Kayatank design. I am hard on my gear and my kayak has leaks topside. Saltwater gets in and inevitably things are going to fail.

[buki]

Originally Posted by madscientist

Hey CJ, what's the fuse actually for? I got sick of corroded fuses and breakers over a year ago and have been running all my stuff without them with no problems. Before I canned the whole thing, I was using 2.5amp circuit breakers instead of fuses and they worked fine until they corroded. Am I at risk of melting a hole in the yak if I get a short somewhere?

I accidentally shorted some components on a circuit board and it caught on fire. The fire wasn't as big as the one in your avatar, but I'm sure my expression was the same. You should use a fuse. Things will get hot if there is a short.

[Dan W.]

It is not waterproof, you are right. BUT, it has lasted maybe 3 years now zip-tied to the top of the intake hose with no housing or waterproof box or anything.