*Added Pics * Mirage drive failed...got home anyway - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

rossman · 11-09-2015, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YakDout

Just one of the reasons I dumped my PA for the outback. Fished with two other guys in la jolla last weekend. The guy on PA14 broke mirage drive. Outback paddled in and donated mirage drive to the PA. Not sure how it would have worked if it wasnt for that. Some guys are keeping spare parts for the mirage drive in their hatch, however I'm sure this part kit does not cover every part on the mirage drive. And $600 for a spare drive? No thanks.

Sounds like you guys need a fully equipped spare Outback to tow behind you for when the inevitable happens. And don't forget the spare parts bag for that one too.

Murray · 11-09-2015, 02:08 PM

Like others have mentioned, an extra chain and tools to install is an absolute must unless you enjoy paddling. No big deal to replace on the water if you have the right tools. I recently disassembled my v1 drive and serviced it. Silky smooth and now I know how to repair if needed. Pretty simple with only a few parts that can go wrong on the water. I also lube exposed wire on chain after rinsing to eliminate rust.

WARRIORMIKE · 11-09-2015, 02:21 PM

Is there a good lube out there??

igotpron · 11-09-2015, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WARRIORMIKE

Is there a good lube out there??

I like "corrosion x" prevents rust and corroding on metal and electrical connections.

Lipripper92592 · 11-09-2015, 02:44 PM

This is the exact reason I do not put a motor on my 26' cuddy cabin. It's just bound to break down some day, and the hassle involved with that......oars are just the way to go, always have and always will. And spare oars are super cheap too. CG has them listed all the time.

Mr. NiceGuy · 11-09-2015, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lipripper92592

This is the exact reason I do not put a motor on my 26' cuddy cabin. It's just bound to break down some day, and the hassle involved with that......oars are just the way to go, always have and always will. And spare oars are super cheap too. CG has them listed all the time.

At the beginning of summer I was rowing my dinghy pretty hard for exercise/fishing in San Diego bay and snapped an oar lock near the bait barge.

It's a slick dinghy of nice quality, but that sucker won't row without an oar lock. Using a single oar as a loose paddle is pretty useless too. Luckily there was enough wind to sail back to my launch point.

I bought a new pair of oar locks and keep the remaining 3rd oar lock in my gear bag as a backup now.

Lots of these things are not so strong and need to be used gently without exerting excessive force.

Same for Mirage peddles. It's not difficult to apply more force than is good for them.

Live and learn. Sometimes small things make big differences.

JohnMckroidJr · 11-09-2015, 04:00 PM

I have had the main axle shaft walk on me twice. Luckily, I discovered it before it move enough to prevent removing the mirage drive out of the well. Need to check all the allen set screws periodically -- if they loosen the shafts can walk. Should be able to gently tap the shaft back into position. A spare mirage will fit in the forward hatch of the PA14, but to make it fit, need to leave out the forward liner. For safety, better have the forward liner in place for flood control and prevention. The mirage can limp in as you learned, I was surprised that a broken mast only reduced speed by 1/3. I'll take a Hobie over a paddle kayak any day. The Hobie paddle needs an extension, let us know if you find a good extension.

Mr. NiceGuy · 11-09-2015, 03:50 PM

How many people know they should carry a tow rope but don't? Further, some ropes are designed to float others don't, but the main point is to have a rope available when we need one.

Another tool that's useful for a Hobie is a phillips screw driver to adjust, tighten or reattach the strings that go to the rudder. Losing rudder control is a pain in the butt too.

I drilled a hole in my plastic screwdriver handle for a nylon wrist strap that can be clipped to a lanyard if I'm working over the water.

Three other items I have found useful are for removing water: hand operated bilge pump (NRS is a good one for about $20), a bailing bucket that I associate with my bait tank (a simple round tupperware that fits through an 8" hatch), and a shamwa for blotting up water in annoying places or using as a wet rag.

Many of these things are multi purpose, so good to have.

YakDout · 11-09-2015, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossman

Sounds like you guys need a fully equipped spare Outback to tow behind you for when the inevitable happens. And don't forget the spare parts bag for that one too.

No need, I have no problems paddling outback, but have never needed to so far. Never had one thing happen to 3 different mirage drives that I own. And Im not easy on em.

ctfphoto · 11-10-2015, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossman

Sounds like you guys need a fully equipped spare Outback to tow behind you for when the inevitable happens.

That's why I got my wife a 2015 outback. If I ever do a very long trip, I might borrow her brand new mirage drive as an extra

Cbad Mike · 11-10-2015, 10:39 AM

I have absolutely no clue what this thread is about.

Geno Machino · 11-10-2015, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbad Mike

I have absolutely no clue what this thread is about.

That's some funny s#*t right there...

TJones · 11-11-2015, 04:21 AM

Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

Mr. NiceGuy · 11-11-2015, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJones

Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

I have an Aqua Bound paddle for my Outback that felt too short to be comfortable.

I cut it in half with my chop saw and inserted a wood pole as a spacer, then wrapped the joint and covered the wood with paracord as a finishing touch. It turned out nice and gives me the extra reach and strength that feels good.

Before I locked the wood spacer into position with epoxy, I went out for some test paddles to figure out what length felt the best for me, relative to the hull of my Outback.

It was a nice improvement.

TJones · 11-13-2015, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. NiceGuy

I have an Aqua Bound paddle for my Outback that felt too short to be comfortable.

I cut it in half with my chop saw and inserted a wood pole as a spacer, then wrapped the joint and covered the wood with paracord as a finishing touch. It turned out nice and gives me the extra reach and strength that feels good.

Before I locked the wood spacer into position with epoxy, I went out for some test paddles to figure out what length felt the best for me, relative to the hull of my Outback.

It was a nice improvement.

You probably saved yourself 200-500$ on a paddle that is primarily just gonna sit there and look pretty.

Hammerhead_77 · 11-13-2015, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJones

Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

Yes, this is my one and only yak...and I don't see myself going to anything narrower, well, ever. So, step 1 was having the local Hobie dealer completely overhaul my drive, do the Glide upgrade, and set me up with the common spare parts.

That done, I still need a backup propulsion option, So, I went and looked at some paddles and DAYYUM! Those things can cost some $$.... Combine that with the fact that a PA is not going to paddle well and my choice has been made... Time to ditch the front hatch liner and get a kill bag and spare drive that will fit in that space.

Cbad Mike · 11-14-2015, 06:36 PM

Hobie's peddle powered kayaks are just a novelty.
Trust me, the fad will be over in 6 months tops.

11-09-2015, 02:44 PM	#5
Lipripper92592 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 516	Oars This is the exact reason I do not put a motor on my 26' cuddy cabin. It's just bound to break down some day, and the hassle involved with that......oars are just the way to go, always have and always will. And spare oars are super cheap too. CG has them listed all the time.

11-09-2015, 03:50 PM	#8
Mr. NiceGuy Manic for Life Join Date: May 2015 Location: San Diego Posts: 839	How many people know they should carry a tow rope but don't? Further, some ropes are designed to float others don't, but the main point is to have a rope available when we need one. Another tool that's useful for a Hobie is a phillips screw driver to adjust, tighten or reattach the strings that go to the rudder. Losing rudder control is a pain in the butt too. I drilled a hole in my plastic screwdriver handle for a nylon wrist strap that can be clipped to a lanyard if I'm working over the water. Three other items I have found useful are for removing water: hand operated bilge pump (NRS is a good one for about $20), a bailing bucket that I associate with my bait tank (a simple round tupperware that fits through an 8" hatch), and a shamwa for blotting up water in annoying places or using as a wet rag. Many of these things are multi purpose, so good to have. __________________ Another ho-hum day in Paradise

11-11-2015, 04:21 AM	#13
TJones Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 2,526	the standard hobie paddle is 230 cm Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

11-14-2015, 06:36 PM	#17
Cbad Mike Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Carlsbad Ca. Posts: 1,206	Hobie's peddle powered kayaks are just a novelty. Trust me, the fad will be over in 6 months tops. __________________ [SIGPIC]

11-09-2015, 02:08 PM	#2
Murray Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Vista Posts: 326	Like others have mentioned, an extra chain and tools to install is an absolute must unless you enjoy paddling. No big deal to replace on the water if you have the right tools. I recently disassembled my v1 drive and serviced it. Silky smooth and now I know how to repair if needed. Pretty simple with only a few parts that can go wrong on the water. I also lube exposed wire on chain after rinsing to eliminate rust.

11-09-2015, 02:21 PM	#3
WARRIORMIKE Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 303	Is there a good lube out there??

11-09-2015, 04:00 PM	#7
JohnMckroidJr Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Fort Lauderdale Posts: 1,977	I have had the main axle shaft walk on me twice. Luckily, I discovered it before it move enough to prevent removing the mirage drive out of the well. Need to check all the allen set screws periodically -- if they loosen the shafts can walk. Should be able to gently tap the shaft back into position. A spare mirage will fit in the forward hatch of the PA14, but to make it fit, need to leave out the forward liner. For safety, better have the forward liner in place for flood control and prevention. The mirage can limp in as you learned, I was surprised that a broken mast only reduced speed by 1/3. I'll take a Hobie over a paddle kayak any day. The Hobie paddle needs an extension, let us know if you find a good extension.