Rod and Reels... What does it all mean? - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

pchen911 · 09-24-2011, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcj229

Diawa sealine for coast ,durability and function.Can't beat e'm.

I second that. Daiwa Sealine is great. And Shimano TLD 15... great lever drag reel for under $100.

xpresso2am · 09-24-2011, 07:49 AM

First thing is there are no fish in La Jolla, so no need to worry about rods and reels

Second, it is about preference. I've done what a lot of peolpe have done, read all the hype, went out and bought a lot of gear (A LOT) and ended up with maybe 4 set ups that works well for me. This lead to my thin out of my Gargage full of gear

It also depends on what you are targeting that day on the water. if you are not targeting something in particular, then you need to bring more gear to handle different scenarios that may pop up.

3 rods for me in la jolla, Jig Stick (super seeker, diawa 20), spectra set up (Diawa or Avet on a Seeker), and one extra loaded with mono (i use this as my back up/ sabiki rod/fly line etc)

Go see Joey at Squidco, he and his crew will help you out!!!

Good luck out there!

bus kid · 09-24-2011, 08:05 AM

I have these for kayak fishing:

Daiwa saltist 30 on Calstar grafighter 800 L for iron. 65 # JB spectra
Daiwa saltist LD 30 2 speed on a Calstar grafighter 800 m for trolling, and live bait 65 # JB w a top shot of 40lb Seaguar.
Abu Revo inshore on a calstar 196. 65 # JB.

They all work well for me, its all preference you have to spend a million dollars to find the right gear all my friends swear by Avet and Shimano, every one that I tried just didnt feel right. tackle whore yourself out buy used gear find what works then go buy it new, and sell off the stuff you dont use.

ChefT · 09-24-2011, 09:30 AM

Check out M&M in point loma......

Im all over diawa....just got a new saltist 35hbg....SWEEEETTTT.

Bought a sealine as well when i first got started...love it ...

just dont spend huge money on rods and reels.....

you never know when when your going to flip...

RK · 09-24-2011, 09:54 AM

sealines or saltists, TANKS
(heard the tld's are good too from a guy that fishes them a lot.........)

moral of the story your always gonna need to upgrade and add to the collection........

buy your rods, reels and salas's at squidco (Joey,josh,kyle and jl will give you the friendliest non-used car salesman opinions and wont rip you off honest dudes and John is the man regarding custom rods).

and your fluoro, hooks, and tady's at charkbait and get your BWE 10%discount. (which is pretty close to squidco's standard pricing.

Have fun blowing your money, It would be cheaper to be a heroin addict than a kayak fisherman

But you can fish world class fishery's 5 times a week

Oh yeah and any kayak specific gear clothing etc.... kayakfishingsupplies or OEX

ChefT · 09-24-2011, 11:14 AM

I would say I'm a big fan of casting the saltist. But it is narrower than my sealine. So it was good to learn how to cast on a wider spool first then move up after learning thumb controll....

Also Have the TLD 50 as well for trolling...
Another great reel ....

Oh yea ... All are fairly easy to clean and repair it your handy with tools and can read there ity bitty diagrams...

GregAndrew · 09-24-2011, 11:40 AM

Rods
Weight- The general strength of the rod, in it's series, usually indicated by it's line class rating.
Speed - The stiffness of the top end of the rod (Medium to Extra Stiff) relative to the rod series.
Backbone - the stiffness of the lower end of the rod.
Butt makeup- Materials, diameter, reel seat or not, and length of the butt.
Guides - Some are specific to salt water, eyelets can be for braid or not.

Reels
Line rating- not really used much anymore since braid.
Capacity- same as above unless you prefer small reels.
Salt water capacity- Some are not nearly as salt water worthy as they state.
Drag strength- in pounds
Drag smoothness- subjective but can be improved with better washers usually.
Drag type - Star or lever.
Cast control- If you need or prefer it.
Clicker- with or without
Ease of freespool- needed for your casting setups.
Retrieve rate- determines how fast you can reel in your line/lure.
Speeds- 2 speeds can be handy in a few situations

there is a start on the characteristics. Basically, what you can make work for you will be almost directly related to your budget.

Billy V · 09-24-2011, 11:41 AM

I like simple and reliable.

In spite of owning over 40 rods and reels from every manufacturer, I seem to reach for whatever is out of the rack and closest to the door.

Lately it has been 3 Tiger Ugly Sticks. Two of them wearing Diawa Sealines, and one wearing a Saltist 40. (I use good line - Izor)

It kills it - as good or better than anything else, and you can run down the rail with a big fish sliding and grinding your rod on top.

-Try that with your superseeker, phenix, or grafighter and let me know how you feel afterwards.

$39.99 when on sale - or $59.99 all day long. 30-60 lb. 7 ft.

09-24-2011, 08:05 AM	#3
bus kid Team Keine Zugehörigkeit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Way out there Posts: 2,854	I have these for kayak fishing: Daiwa saltist 30 on Calstar grafighter 800 L for iron. 65 # JB spectra Daiwa saltist LD 30 2 speed on a Calstar grafighter 800 m for trolling, and live bait 65 # JB w a top shot of 40lb Seaguar. Abu Revo inshore on a calstar 196. 65 # JB. They all work well for me, its all preference you have to spend a million dollars to find the right gear all my friends swear by Avet and Shimano, every one that I tried just didnt feel right. tackle whore yourself out buy used gear find what works then go buy it new, and sell off the stuff you dont use. __________________ Não alimente os trolls------------Don't feed the trolls---------------インタネット荒らしを無視しろ

09-24-2011, 11:41 AM	#8
Billy V Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bay Ho Posts: 1,382	I like simple and reliable. In spite of owning over 40 rods and reels from every manufacturer, I seem to reach for whatever is out of the rack and closest to the door. Lately it has been 3 Tiger Ugly Sticks. Two of them wearing Diawa Sealines, and one wearing a Saltist 40. (I use good line - Izor) It kills it - as good or better than anything else, and you can run down the rail with a big fish sliding and grinding your rod on top. -Try that with your superseeker, phenix, or grafighter and let me know how you feel afterwards. $39.99 when on sale - or $59.99 all day long. 30-60 lb. 7 ft. __________________

09-24-2011, 07:49 AM	#2
xpresso2am Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 209	First thing is there are no fish in La Jolla, so no need to worry about rods and reels Second, it is about preference. I've done what a lot of peolpe have done, read all the hype, went out and bought a lot of gear (A LOT) and ended up with maybe 4 set ups that works well for me. This lead to my thin out of my Gargage full of gear It also depends on what you are targeting that day on the water. if you are not targeting something in particular, then you need to bring more gear to handle different scenarios that may pop up. 3 rods for me in la jolla, Jig Stick (super seeker, diawa 20), spectra set up (Diawa or Avet on a Seeker), and one extra loaded with mono (i use this as my back up/ sabiki rod/fly line etc) Go see Joey at Squidco, he and his crew will help you out!!! Good luck out there!

09-24-2011, 09:30 AM	#4
ChefT Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: SD Posts: 216	Check out M&M in point loma...... Im all over diawa....just got a new saltist 35hbg....SWEEEETTTT. Bought a sealine as well when i first got started...love it ... just dont spend huge money on rods and reels..... you never know when when your going to flip...

09-24-2011, 09:54 AM	#5
RK Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 736	sealines or saltists, TANKS (heard the tld's are good too from a guy that fishes them a lot.........) moral of the story your always gonna need to upgrade and add to the collection........ buy your rods, reels and salas's at squidco (Joey,josh,kyle and jl will give you the friendliest non-used car salesman opinions and wont rip you off honest dudes and John is the man regarding custom rods). and your fluoro, hooks, and tady's at charkbait and get your BWE 10%discount. (which is pretty close to squidco's standard pricing. Have fun blowing your money, It would be cheaper to be a heroin addict than a kayak fisherman But you can fish world class fishery's 5 times a week Oh yeah and any kayak specific gear clothing etc.... kayakfishingsupplies or OEX

09-24-2011, 11:14 AM	#6
ChefT Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: SD Posts: 216	I would say I'm a big fan of casting the saltist. But it is narrower than my sealine. So it was good to learn how to cast on a wider spool first then move up after learning thumb controll.... Also Have the TLD 50 as well for trolling... Another great reel .... Oh yea ... All are fairly easy to clean and repair it your handy with tools and can read there ity bitty diagrams...

09-24-2011, 11:40 AM	#7
GregAndrew Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,384	Rods Weight- The general strength of the rod, in it's series, usually indicated by it's line class rating. Speed - The stiffness of the top end of the rod (Medium to Extra Stiff) relative to the rod series. Backbone - the stiffness of the lower end of the rod. Butt makeup- Materials, diameter, reel seat or not, and length of the butt. Guides - Some are specific to salt water, eyelets can be for braid or not. Reels Line rating- not really used much anymore since braid. Capacity- same as above unless you prefer small reels. Salt water capacity- Some are not nearly as salt water worthy as they state. Drag strength- in pounds Drag smoothness- subjective but can be improved with better washers usually. Drag type - Star or lever. Cast control- If you need or prefer it. Clicker- with or without Ease of freespool- needed for your casting setups. Retrieve rate- determines how fast you can reel in your line/lure. Speeds- 2 speeds can be handy in a few situations there is a start on the characteristics. Basically, what you can make work for you will be almost directly related to your budget.