My first bait tank build - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

Iceman · 02-25-2012, 04:33 PM

he can still pop the top and clear the impeller, and replace the motor cartridge if ever needed. JB weld just around bottom. I prefer 5200 as it flexes. jb weld is almost like bondo. Still you should be good to go as long as you tightened down the strainer.

dorado50 · 02-25-2012, 05:41 PM

Yea, its evident impeller unit can be removed when not in the water, but is there access to remove in the water when needed!!!!! If you can't clear impeller when jammed while on the water the bait tank becomes a non factor...

echo1er · 02-25-2012, 06:01 PM

looks slick

William Novotny · 02-25-2012, 08:22 PM

This is my first build so I dont speak from experience but I did my homework and I feel that this will work well. The houseing is in an area that is accessible for maintnance. time on the water wil be the test but for now I'm confident with the design do to the number of people I see using it. The jb weld was to put my mind at ease in case it gets bumped on the water.

seriola_killer · 02-25-2012, 08:53 PM

Stupid question but I don't know...

Is this an aerator or bilge pump? And which one is proper for kayak bait tanks?
One more...

For a smaller tank wouldn't something like 60-90 gph be plenty?

William Novotny · 02-25-2012, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seriola_kiler

Stupid question but I don't know...

Is this an aerator or bilge pump? And which one is proper for kayak bait tanks?
One more...

For a smaller tank wouldn't something like 60-90 gph be plenty?

1st question. The one im using is an aerator. Its good for thru hull systems. submersible bilge pumps are used for over the side tanks.

2nd. The pump is not on 100% of the time so its not actually moving that much water. You turn it on for 10 minutes every 15 minutes or so or put it on a timer

02-25-2012, 04:33 PM	#1
Iceman Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: 1-2 miles off the point Posts: 6,948	he can still pop the top and clear the impeller, and replace the motor cartridge if ever needed. JB weld just around bottom. I prefer 5200 as it flexes. jb weld is almost like bondo. Still you should be good to go as long as you tightened down the strainer. __________________

02-25-2012, 08:22 PM	#4
William Novotny The carpetbagger Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: tha newps Posts: 1,474	This is my first build so I dont speak from experience but I did my homework and I feel that this will work well. The houseing is in an area that is accessible for maintnance. time on the water wil be the test but for now I'm confident with the design do to the number of people I see using it. The jb weld was to put my mind at ease in case it gets bumped on the water. __________________ "The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope." http://www.badinfluencetattoo.com/gallery.php?artist=21

02-25-2012, 08:53 PM	#5
seriola_killer Sled Peddler Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Bonita, Ca. Posts: 236	Stupid question but I don't know... Is this an aerator or bilge pump? And which one is proper for kayak bait tanks? One more... For a smaller tank wouldn't something like 60-90 gph be plenty? __________________ Jerry Moore Need a car or truck to yaul your yak? Ring me up. (619)988-3325

02-25-2012, 05:41 PM	#2
dorado50 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: La Jolla Shores Posts: 1,626	Yea, its evident impeller unit can be removed when not in the water, but is there access to remove in the water when needed!!!!! If you can't clear impeller when jammed while on the water the bait tank becomes a non factor...

02-25-2012, 06:01 PM	#3
echo1er Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 598	looks slick